Every night on my stroll home from nowhere I pass a warm-looking farm-to-table restaurant. It's new. Or new to me, anyway. When I lived here last, nearly two decades ago, it was an art studio. It sits on a corner, across from a 14-room pied-à-terre. The front door opens to a narrow, one-way street that leads to downtown proper. A wrap-around window effuses haute hospitality onto an otherwise dark side street that looks every bit Tim Burton's Gotham on the two nights a week when the restaurant'